New Baby Whales Confirmed in Both J and L pods!!!

HOT OFF THE PRESSES

Ken Balcomb of the Center for Whale Reserach confirmed "there are two new calves (one in J and one in L), but we are not officially specifying mums yet. We are conferring with Dr. John Ford and our Canadian colleagues before stating possible mothers. We would like to have several encounters with the babies and their mothers before assigning because grandma's may also confuse things."

This is really great news! If the calves survive, it would bring the So. Resident population up to about 85 - still way too low for this fragile, endangered population, but every new birth counts and moves this population in the right direction. It is especially good news after the loss of seven members of the So. Residents last year (which included 2 of the 3 calves born, and several reproductive age females). Let's hope the whales come back into inland waters again soon, so researchers can have more encounters and confirm who the new moms are.
Susan Berta & Howard Garrett, Orca Network

Sometime Pictures Simply Cant Speak a Thousand Words

The cool fall air and colorfully leaved trails on San Juan Island are not only  harbingers of another winter yet to come.  This time of year you wake up to the hoots of various owls, the animals are foraging with resolute courage and the sunsets over the Haro Straits begin to burn with colors not seen in summer months.

For me, the season, although my absolute favorite of the year, brings about a bit of nostalgia for all of the wonders experienced since the unfurling of the first little forest flowers in March. I cannot help but look back over the year in photos, pining for the youth of spring and the robust colors of summer. And I realize, that sometimes photos simply cannot speak the thousands of words I would love to portray about the inherent beauty of the Islands we call home.  Described as  "jewels," with their "timeless beauty" referred to so often that it almost becomes trite... you have to wonder how do you truly encompass the magic known as life in the San Juan Islands? Since I am not a writer, that task (thankfully) will be left to others.  I will, in the interim, do my best to "describe" with my lens- a photographic diary of images and thoughts so that I will remember each day and give each person a glimpse of a surreal reality. Can you tell I am nostalgic?  Some reasons why, and these are not the "best of"- just little snapshots of life on an island miles off the coast of Washington State:

Days spent at the local coves swimming with Bogey..ok she swam, we threw sticks.

Low tides have so much to offer, thankfully, while we sat on the rocks at Lime Kiln waiting for the whales.

Countless hours spent at dawns throughout the summer at American Camp, watching for fox pups and waiting for the perfect shot which never came, but enjoying their antics nonetheless.

Reveling in the majesty of the hundreds of eagles perched on rocks an in trees across the expansive waterfronts.

Following the moulting of a local elephant seal, waiting patiently for his true beauty to emerge.

Days spent on the water with the Marine Mammal Stranding network, where with sadness comes majesty...an interesting juxtaposition.

A once in a lifetime visit to Stuart Island, courtesy of the Whale Museum!

And my reason for living on San Juan Island ....the most enthralling animals in the world.

The first of many glorious winter sunsets over the Haro Straits.

As the southern resident community of whales spend their days this week at the mouth of the Fraser River desperately seeking out the last salmon of the season, we patiently wait for the inevitable last glimpses we will have of our underwater compatriots this season- the lives around which most of the island's lives flourish during tourist season. And watch the beauty of the late fall sunsets unfurl.

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Super Pod Returns to the San Juan Islands

Yesterday, what appears to be members of all three pods of southern resident orca whales returned to the west side of San Juan Island. Though far offshore and incredibly spread out (so much so photos were not even an issue)- we were able to see K's, J's and L's traveling towards the Island. At last sighting (approx 5:45), most of the whales had headed North, with some remaining to forage off the west side near Hannah Heights. So nice to see them this time of year! No pics, but here's a few from months gone by ... keep in mind that yesterday the water was ANYTHING but blue- we finally had some rain, lots of mist on the water and gray skies- but hey, even paradise needs a little rest from the sunshine once in a while!!

And just after I posted this blog we had a moment of sunshine with just enough moisture in the air to allow a brilliant rainbow to appear for a few moments...the island you see is Discovery.

  

Even though the whales were back in town,  I dragged one of my whale buddies off the west side to attend the opening/release party of a local band at Bella Luna's Blues Night. Wow! The music was fantastic and the crowds were out the door! Cant tell you how much I love these guys- great blues, awesome rhythms and great rapport with the crowds.  Wednesday nights at Bella Luna in the winter months are one of few things we look forward to (as far as winter goes- not much going on here in the colder months!). But great Blues by local islanders and lots of camaraderie is certainly high on the list!!!. And the pizza we had for dinner? Yum! Try the Luna Pizza...it's to die for! (And no, I am not just saying that 'cause it is named after an iconic whale...smiles...it's really good!

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Here Today Gone Tomorrow..The Southern Residents Outdo Themselves!

Wednesday evening was perhaps one of the most beautiful nights of the summer. With the clouds whispering over the Haro Straits, the water was absolutely dead calm. The repetitive cheers of Harlequin ducks could be heard echoing across the shores amidst the calls of bullfrogs and Belted Kingfishers. As the sun began to fall beyond the terrain of Vancouver Island, so did the hope that the orca whales would make a pass on the west side with enough light remaining to commemorate the pass in photos. Jeanne Hyde had called to let me know the whales had been spotted- so I made my way to Lime Kiln to see the approaching superpod.

Sometimes the lighting is perfect or the seas lay down in such a way that the fins of the whales come into focus by themselves- no talent needed, the photograph takes itself. Other times, you have to put the "perfect photo" aside and simply revel in the moment- whether it is a close pass to shore where the orcas play in the kelpy shoreline or where the sounds of their blows echoing off the waters literally takes your breath away. It's not always about the shot, although that has been a hard lesson to learn. Tonight was one of the latter...

With the sun fading, the first dorsal fins came into view. While many whales passed miles offshore, we sat in reverence as several groups passed very close to the shoreline, the golden waters embracing the shadowy profiles and the blows echoing across the waters. The pass brought a hush to the crowd...each of us experiencing the interaction in absolute silence. It's so difficult to describe a moment like this...one where you are absolutely awed by the orcas and the overwhelmingly majestic beauty of the Islands. And while we watched, two perfect fins sliced through the waters, a harmony created by 50+ years at one another's sides. It was Granny (J2) and Ruffles (J1)- the matriarch of J pod and her constant companion for the last 50 years, gliding through the oceans side by side, their exhalations echoing to our ears. It was such an emotionally beautiful pass, just a couple of photos to commemorate- but one that will linger in my mind as almost ethereal.

Returning home to the now dark Straits, I couldn't allow the moment to end. I sat outside on the shoreline, listening with awe as the blows echoed across the straits, some close to shore at my feet, others surely headed towards Discovery Island..and many in between.  Even the most seasoned whale watcher can still be awed, as well it should be with these magnificent creatures.

The Seattle PI wrote and beautiful series on Granny and the whales' plight which is truly worth reading. This six-part special report both chronicles the long life of Granny, the respected elder in her Northwest orca pod, and examines the weak regulations, spotty enforcement and political foot-dragging that have put local orcas in jeopardy. Enjoy! Until next time...Sandy

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Labor Day in the Islands- And the Superpod Returns!!!

As another summer tourism season comes to a close this weekend, we call to an end a season of chilly weather, intermittent rain (a good thing here!) and blazes of glory in black and white. Yes, I am talking about those beloved and endangered black and whites known as the southern resident community of orca whales. On and off since my last post, we have had members of all three pods visiting the Haro Straits, often spending the entire day on the west side of San Juan Island and north. (Did you know the Center for Whale Research has an OrcaCam on the West Side?  Click here for details! You can also listen to the whales as they glide through our waters by clicking here and visiting Orcasound! )

When tides were strong we struggled to even find the whales in the rough seas- their blows barely topping the crests of some pretty large waves. Tides rushed them past the lighthouse towards the Fraser River- making photos pretty much impossible! If the seas were 5-7 feet I would not be surprised!

But there were also calm days when the seas laid down and the clouds mirrored themselves on the Straits. The whales' exhalations (blows) could be heard for a mile- but they were FAR offshore and directly in the sunlight, surrounded by at one count 49 boats, both pleasure and commercial. Lots of milling and foraging and slowly traveling south...with an amazing amount of social and tactile behavior. Lots of rolls and peck slaps, whales rubbing up against one another and breaches galore! This time the tides were slack and the whales took their time heading to the islands- three hours to be exact! Lots of pleasure craft in the vicinity- and behaviours were absolutely awful! Thanks to Soundwatch, the worst of the groups were chastised and educated. Rumor has it, several were even reported to NOAA! 

And then there was today---no one could find the southern residents. Most of the tour operators headed North to follow a group of Transients. I was sitting at my desk and happened to see a sailboat passing by far off the shore in the middle of the Haro Straits. the lighting was just beautiful and I took a moment to watch the sails as they passed- when suddenly a large splash approximately 3 miles offshore caught my attention. I ran upstairs to look through the scope and sure enough- there were fins..4 at first...but upon further inspection, they were everywhere! The residents were returning for another day of fishing in the waters around the islands!!! I called Jeanne Hyde to tell her- and she called Soundwatch to let them know. Within 10 minutes there were 6 privately owned boats ON TOP OF THE WHALES! While there is a huge amount of excitement to encounter a pod of whales in the wild on your way home from a great weekend in the Islands, it is horribly frustrating to watch the utter lack of consciousness of those having the encounter. These boats literally kept their engines running while intermingling with the returning group of orcas- lack of education is one thing but outright thoughtlessness can be destructive. The whales made it through and Soundwatch was soon on the scene- and all was well yet again in the Haro Straits!
*NOTE: The boat pictured above just happens to be in the photo- a photo posted because of the youngster's face! Having re-read the blog, I do not want to give anyone the impression this operator did anything wrong, he was just a background boat!
The southern resident orcas are magnificent creatures currently being protected by the United States as an Endangered Species. The weekend has had wondrous moments intermixed with fear and concern- but all in all, we're just glad to have them here.  In August of 2007 we went for close to three weeks without a sighting- so it's all good!!!!  If you're interested in more photos from the islands, please visit my gallery at Zazzle. Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this blog and makes the whales a part of your life, in whatever part of the world you live!! Happy Labor Day and may your September be brilliant!
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Southern Resident Orcas are an Endangered Species: It Bears Repeating

Howard Garrett once wrote an inspiring article detailing the lifestyle & history of the southern resident community of orca whales. It's worth the read if you're looking for an intimate overview of the whales and want to appreciate the riddled history of these magnificent creatures and the various plights facing their continued survival in the wild. Experiencing these creatures is wondrous but we need to understand that the same whales who bring us such joy are also struggling to survive, day in and day out.

In May 2003, NOAA Fisheries Service designated the Southern Resident killer whales as "depleted" under the Marine Mammal Protection Act (MMPA). By November of 2005, the agency had listed the southern resident killer whales as "endangered" under the Endangered Species Act. The agency cited (in varying degrees) availability of prey, pollution and effects from vessels and sound as major threats to the whales’ health- all of which could be contributing to the population's decline.  And all the while, the majestic families of black-and-white orcas, known as the Southern Resident Community, have continued to disappear from their home waters. Just this month, reports suggest that great-great-great-grandma Lummi – the oldest member of the local orca population – has been missing since December and is presumed dead.  And according to an interview with Ken Balcomb of the Center for Whale Research in the Kitsap Sun, there is news of yet another potentially missing whale, Aurora- a six year old L Pod male. Aurora is the brother of the legendary Luna, the supremely social orca whale who was eventually killed by a boat's propeller in Canada,  2006.

On June 12th of this year, a new State law was passed to provide further protection for these animals, an enforceable law aimed at enhancing the Whale Watching Guidelines already in place.  The new law establishes mandatory rules for boaters and paddlers, including a requirement that vessels stay at least 100 yards away from southern resident orca whales. Boaters who violate the new state law can also face significant fines, thus providing NOAA & the Department of Fish and Wildlife with enforcement tools to better protect the endangered Southern resident whales.

Education seems to be the key word at this juncture. Behaviors of the numerous vessels vary significantly, but when watching them from shore- sometimes you just have to wonder what people are thinking. Two of four baseline behavior examples from yesterday- three years after the orcas were placed on the endangered species list...

We watched these two head from the south, cross in front of the whales to get "a perfect" position- hope they got the great shot they were after (even if at the whales' expense):

And this group pulled directly in front of the whales after having come between the pod and the shoreline...amazing the whales were not injured or the boat, for that matter.

All in all, the private boaters were out in hoards yesterday. But thankfully, so was NOAA- and this is how the story ends...
We all have the OBLIGATION to familiarize ourselves with the regulations before encountering the whales in the wild. I, like everyone else, enjoy the encounters we have with the whales- but also want the whales to thrive and continue their travels through the islands. With salmon recovery plans underway and pollution initiatives becoming realized- it's now up to us to look at our own behavior and how we can impact their survival.  Kudos to NOAA for their prompt and aggressive enforcement efforts yesterday- it's time well spent in the quest to save the species.

WHALE WATCHING REQUIREMENTS

1. BE CAUTIOUS and COURTEOUS: approach areas of known or suspected marine wildlife activity with extreme caution. Look in all directions before planning your approach or departure.

2. SLOW DOWN: reduce speed to less than 7 knots when within 400 metres/yards of the nearest whale. Avoid abrupt course changes.

3. KEEP CLEAR of the whales’ path. If whales are approaching you, cautiously move out of the way.

4. DO NOT APPROACH whales from the front or from behind. Always approach and depart whales from the side, moving in a direction parallel to the direction of the whales.

5. DO NOT APPROACH or position your vessel closer than 100 metres/yards to any whale.

6. If your vessel is not in compliance with the 100 metres/yards approach guideline (#5), place engine in neutral and allow whales to pass.

7. STAY on the OFFSHORE side of the whales when they are traveling close to shore.

8. LIMIT your viewing time to a recommended maximum of 30 minutes. This will minimize the cumulative impact of many vessels and give consideration to other viewers.

9. DO NOT swim with, touch or feed marine wildlife.

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Southern Resident Orcas Return to the San Juan Islands!

After a weekend of warm, cloudy weather and no whales other than a large group of transients (meat/ marine mammal eating whales) on Sunday, yesterday morning we were treated to reports that there were southern resident orcas on the west side of San Juan Island.  Milling well offshore of False Bay, the whales took their time approaching the Island- but by 11:30 0r 12:00, the first whales could be seen- close to shore and headed North towards the lighthouse.

And what a show we were about to experience- one of the best land based whale watching days so far this year.  We ran to Lime Kiln Lighthouse, known for it's west side viewing opportunities. Luckily, the summer crowds are beginning to dwindle and the parking lot had lots of room! Heading down to the rocks, we could hear the first blows (orca whale exhalations) through the trees. That was just a taste of what was to come!

Once we arrived at our viewing spot on the rocks, we were treated to the first close pass- Ruffles (J1) and some other J's were intermingled with L's- so we knew there were members of two of the three pods here. Traveling close to shore, the whales took their time, making a very slow pass by the shoreline. Granny (J2) was further offshore but in the lead as usual! We saw Faith, Canuck- whales were truly everywhere! But the best was yet to come as we waited out the rest of the whales to see if everyone would head north. This year it has certainly NOT been uncommon for J pod to make a beeline for the Fraser River, leaving any accompanying pods behind! Although there have been some unusual travel patterns with various L's and K's traveling with other pods for long periods this summer.  We crossed our fingers, looked south and waited...and within 1/2 hour the rest of the orcas passed by. And did they pass by!  At least 25 whales made their way into shore- J's and L's intermingled- coming within feet of the rocks at the park. One whale even treated us to a breach within feet of our vantage point. Of course, given the travel patterns this year and very few close passes at the light, I had only brought my 300 mm lens- so the whales barely fit into my pics!!!!  But simply listening to the blows and watching all of their faces rise from the water as the orcas made the pass was enough- sometimes you just have to sit back and take it all in, forgetting the "perfect photo quest."

Another spectacular day in the San Juan Islands!

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August 10th Superpod!!!

Sunday started out like any other day in the San Juan Islands this summer, a bit of cloud cover and scenic views across the Haro Straits. Took the puppy for a walk on the trails at Lime Kiln (to calm her down a bit!)- but the day was going to change upon my return home. I received a phone call at 10:00am from Captain Ivan of Western Prince Whale Watching Tours- there were whales heading in towards the Islands- lots of whales. At first, the operators thought they had J Pod and a "few L's," but that would change as the day went on. They were out at Race Rocks off of Canada's west coast- so the watch began.

And it was well worth the wait! By mid-afternoon, I was seeing so many fins crossing the Straits that I just knew there was more than "a few L's." Looking through my scope, I thought I saw Cappuccino (who is a beautiful boy in K pod) but wasn't positive given the angle. First to hit the shores were members of J Pod- Ruffles and Granny immediately headed North offshore, but Slick and her family along with the Cookies made an exceptionally close pass in resting mode off of Hannah Heights. I ran to the Lighthouse- knowing this was going to be good. Ran to the rock and I was just in time for the show- whales everywhere!!!! Lots of L's made close passes at the Lime Kiln shores- here are a few photos from the day! Lots of lunging, breaches, rolling and tail slapping- looks as though the whales were quite excited to be reunited. This is the first time in weeks, if not more, that all three pods of the Southern Resident community have been together- we'd have to wait until 5:00 to see those K's, who had apparently headed SOUTH before turing north to meet up with J's and L's. 

Sounds as though many of the whales are at the Fraser River this morning, although just got word that orcas have been spotted off the south side of the Island at Cattle Pass ....more to follow!  Here's where the whales would be off of the south side right now....

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San Juan Islands Has it All!!!

Located in the pacific northwest, the San Juan Islands have something for everyone- kayaking, biking, sunshine, great Inns full of charm, incredible shopping and WILDLIFE!!!! Today, the whales were the center of attention, with J Pod showing up at 6:34am on the West Side of the San Juan Island, heading North and close to shore.  They made it to the light and abruptly turned south....

By Noon, they still hadn't made a decision as to what direction they felt like traveling- actively engaged in a hearty round of what people often call "the West Side Shuffle." Lots of socializing, lots of play and a little resting along the way.  As of this writing, at 3:10pm PST- the pod remains south of False Bay, lots of fun to be had by all on the west side today!!!

It is important to stress that the wildlife in the pacific northwest is not only cherished but also protected. The National Park Service's Organic Act of 1916 gave us the responsibility to "… conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations." Many of the local parks and adjoining areas have been designated as refuge areas by the USFWS.

Like so many beautiful coastal places, the San Juans and commensurate tourism are developing at a rapid pace, natural habitats are being altered and the marine environment is showing signs of stress. Within the County, there are now over 40 listed species of concern. Environmental stewardship begs us to constantly remember how fragile the ecosystem within which we live truly is and consistently focus on our footprint's impact upon the existing fragility - being sure NOT to add to it. 

Just the other day, while at Lime Kiln, we sat on the rocks watching the whales go by. To our right, on an outcropping- a large harbor seal had hauled out to sun himself. Harbor seals often haul out at low tide to digest food, rest, give birth, or nurse young. We watched in AMAZEMENT as 15- 30 people began crawling down the rocks to "get a better picture." The seal became more and more stressed as the onlookers got closer.  Finally, we headed over to the Park Ranger who advised this has been an ongoing problem at the Park, signs have been posted and they're trying to figure out how to keep this from continuing.  In the interim, I hope people realize that while cute, harbor seals are wild animals that reach five to six feet (1.7-1.9 m) in length and weigh up to 300 pounds (140 kg). If disturbed too often, they have been known to abandon favorite haul-out sites or their pups....and this is pupping season in the Islands. So please, remember the law- keep yourself 100 yards away from all wildlife on the islands! The path toward sustainability requires that residents and visitors take personal responsibility  for the natural wealth in order to protect the future for all, reducing our impact in the interim.

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Orca Calf Found Dead On Henry Island

Sadly enough the news that was posted August 4th was not what many want to hear- the San Juan County Marine Mammal Stranding Network has recovered a body of a dead orca calf on the beaches of Henry Island.  While it was originally sighted on July 26th, the fetus was not reported to the Network until August 1.   In the meantime, the body was scavenged and was in an advanced state of decomposition when researchers arrived on scene. 

According to Amy Traxler, who runs the Network, “A newborn killer whale calf is usually 7 to 8 feet long and 300-400 pounds,” while this carcass was approximately 5 feet long with an estimated weight of 70-80 pounds, so it’s likely this calf was aborted.”  The placenta was lying next to the calf when originally discovered, she said, and it is believed the calf was born prematurely. Cause of death, as well as whether it was a member of a resident or transient pod, is expected to be determined in a necropsy being conducted by Dr. Joe Gaydos, the Stranding Network’s veterinarian and regional director of the SeaDoc Society , a research institution affiliated with the University of California-Davis.

A recent paper Gaydos presented to the International Whaling Commission suggests that an average of seven killer-whale carcasses are found around the world annually, making every killer whale stranding a rare opportunity to learn more about the biology and diseases of this species. Researchers will now try to conduct a necropsy to try and determine the cause of death as well as attempt to determine if this calf is, indeed, an offspring of the endangered southern resident community of orca whales.  At issue will be the amount of decomposition and whether or not there are any viable tissue samples to be found.  I actually assist in necropsies with Joe and Amy- and see firsthand what a loss a decomposing body can be to scientific efforts.

To respond to marine mammal strandings in San Juan County, alive or dead, please call 1-800-562-8832 and leave a message with your name, phone number, location, and other pertinent details of the stranding. You will be helping to better understand and protect the region’s marine mammals.

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Destination: San Juan Islands

Recently, the San Juan Islands have been getting alot of press coverage- and for good reason. The evergreen lined shores and pristine marine environment of the hundreds of islands making up the San Juan archipelago are known throughout the world for their unsurpassed beauty. Consisting of roughly 150 islands (depending on high and low tides) and stretching 24 miles in the lower end of the Georgia Strait in northwest Washington just below the Canadian border, several of the larger cities are accessible by a ferry ride that lasts nearly 1.5 hours. But as you travel through the blue waters, marvel at the eagles soaring and the seals frolicking in the Straits, it's hard to imagine in the midst of this idyll, that you are actually on a form of public transportation. Here in the San Juan Islands, the ferry you have boarded is considered part of the Washington State highway system. Yes, it's hard to believe. You may just want to sit back, enjoy the ride and start redefining "paradise."  But be sure to check the schedule- short of flying in, this is the only was to get to the Islands- and you want to make that ferry!

The historic seaport of Friday Harbor awaits you at the end of the journey, in the heart of the Salish Sea, nestled between three magnificent cities of the Pacific Northwest: Seattle, Vancouver and Victoria. Measuring one square mile, the city has no stop lights but embraces an island culture borne of geographic seclusion and resilient spirit.  Set your expectations high, because you will not be disappointed by the magical forests, breathtaking and bountiful wildlife, long swept driftwood ridden beaches, mountain peaks with incredible vistas, towering cedar trees, and quiet bays.

STEP IN AND TAKE A PEEK...

So, who's talking about the Islands? Well, where do we start? The Washington Post just published an outstanding piece about the Islands- and gives great hints on eats, things to do and places to stay. (Note that COHO Restaurant, which I mentioned in an earlier blog is reviewed!!!)  The Islands have also been listed as one of the BEST places to retire at Topretirements.com, stating "San Juan Islands attracts a community who want to live in a very small island community surrounded by world class scenery and recreational opportunities." Not enough for you? How about the recent ranking by Travel + Leisure Magazine - who announced its 2008 World's Best Awards on July 10, ranking the San Juan Islands #4 on its list of Top 5 Islands in the Continental U.S. and Canada . And in February, the National Trust for Historic Preservation named Friday Harbor , Washington one of its 2008 Dozen Distinctive Destinations.  Even the New York Time weighed in...

Haven't been persuaded yet?  Keep on visiting...there's so much to see...

Hope to see you soon!!!!

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